There a dust speck of an airport there now, in Wamena, the only town of any size in the valley. A garbage strewn former Dutch government outpost, the best part about Wamena is leaving it to tour the rest of the valley. Ringed by emerald green mountains, divided by the Baliem River, dotted with hamlets of thatch roofed huts, the valley looks much as it did when Earl and his squad of Filipino American paratroopers dropped in to help Margaret Hastings, John McCollom, and the third survivor, Technic
